Footsteps across France

Perfect weather for our walk.  This was the first day when we didn't feel like we were walking alone, we saw and sometimes walked with other pilgrims the entire way. Although most pilgrims carry all of their supplies with them on their backs, we've seen other means of luggage transport including pack dogs, donkeys, bicycles and "wheelies" -one wheeled pull-behind trailers.  At the top of one particularly grueling climb, there was a van waiting with backpacks, to be donned for the flat portion of the journey.

We have been told that there are many types of mud on "The Way". Today we experienced many of them.  Left convent in an overcast morning.  Climbed the hills for a spectacular view Took shelter in a Romanesque church from a bout of rain, thunder and lightning.  In Espalian, crossed the Lot River, bought  cheese and other treats at farmers market  Struggled with mud covered trails.  I'm not kidding! Our shoes, socks and pants were caked with mud, we slid all over the steep trails, and leaned heavily on our poles. 

The storm was scheduled to arrive in all its force around 1. We timed our arrival to see the beautiful town and then take a late lunch and stay out of the rain. As you can see from all the backpacks, other pilgrims had the same idea. I really wanted to spend one night in a Convent.  The Couvent Malet provided a welcoming and wonderful respite. We finally got to run a load of laundry. We attended vespers and a lovely communal dinner. Shoes were left downstairs and backpacks were stored in special bins in case of bed bugs. 

Except for the "La Savage" region, just about everywhere has had cell service, just no data service, which is only available on a occasional basis in the big towns.  Most of the aberges and hotels have "wee-fee", but it's over subscribed.  We have a little Internet access when we first arrive, but it craps out by dinner.  We can usually get access at 6am until the other guests get up. Typing prose is tough on a phone, which is why we've mostly posted photos.  The blogging apps don't help either as they are prone to loosing all the content one has entered when the upload fails (which is frequently)

Today's route had us walking in a serpentine path along the Lot river gorge, up one side of the gorge on steep muddy trails, along the ridge with fierce rain and winds with views to match, back down again on trails lined by stones dragged from fields over many centuries,  over ancient stone bridges, up to the ridge on the other side,  past medieval buildings hunkered down against the imminent storm.  Do you think Friday's weather forecast is any better. We can't wait.

Leaving La Rose de l'Aubrac to walk across the Aubrac plateau. Notice the bag of water hanging inside the doorway. Apparently it scares flies away, because they think a fish will catch them. The owners hung these all through the house. Because of an impending storm, the winds were fierce. After walking in the heavy winds for 4 hours, we found a small shack that had room for three of us to be sheltered long enough to eat some lunch.  Entering Aubrac.  We have seen Spring flowers everywhere. Here are just a few.  We are expecting 2 very stormy days. Because of that we finished an extra steep section today. To do that we walked 17.75 miles and are both a little tired. 

Leaving the Le Gévaudan gîte  Today we walked almost 17 miles, from Les Estrets to Finieyrols over the high volcanic and granite  Aubrac  plateau with a day filled with sunshine and blue skies.

Leaving Le Sauvage on a cold, windy, grey morning.  Chapelle de Saint Roche Looking back at Saint-Alban sur-Limagnol.  View from the top We walked 14.5 miles from Le Sauvage to Les Estrets and now are ready for a hot shower, dinner and a good night sleep.